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1 ends per inch
1) Текстиль: плотность ткани по основе на один дюйм2) Полимеры: количество нитей корда на 25 мм ширины ткани, плотность ткани по количеству нитей на единицу ширины в 25 мм EPM ethylene propylene monomer двойной сополимер этилена с пропиленом3) Макаров: число нитей основы на один дюйм -
2 ends per inch
< textil> ■ Kettfadenzahl pro Zoll f -
3 ends per inch
Англо-русский словарь текстильной промышленности > ends per inch
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4 ends per inch
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5 ends per inch
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6 ends per inch
число нитей по основе на 1 дюйм; плотность ткани по основе на один дюймEnglish-Russian dictionary on textile and sewing industry > ends per inch
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7 Ends
A term used to denote the warp threads of a fabric, most often used in connection with the sett of the warp, e.g., 90 ends per inch. -
8 Sett Systems
The number of warp threads per inch or other unit of measurement is termed the " sett." There are at least 14 different sett systems and each is denoted by the locality in which it is used. Bradford System - Number of beers of 40 threads in 36-in. Thus 72 sett Bradford = 72 X 40: 36 = 80 ends per inch. Leeds - Number of porters of 38 threads in 9-in. Thus 12 porter sett = 12 X 38: 9 = 5.06 threads per inch. Huddersfield - Dents per inch X ends per dent, thus 16's reed 3's means that there are 16 dents per inch with 3 threads per dent = 48 threads per inch. Dewsbury - Number of beers of 38 threads in 90-in. Bolton - Number of beers of 40 threads each in 241/4-in. Manchester - Number of splits of two threads each in 36-in. Stockport - Number of dents of two threads in 2-in. The Stockport sett is the most convenient as the reed count or sett indicates directly the number of threads per inch in the reed without calculation providing the reeding is uniformly two ends per dent. Blackburn - Number of beers of 40 threads in 45-in. Glasgow - Number of dents two threads per dent in 37-in. Scotch Tweed - Number of porters of 40 threads in 37-in. Linen (Ireland) - Number of dents of two threads each in 40-in. These are given as 1200, 1400, etc. Sett 1200 for example has 1,200 X 2: 40 = 60 threads per inch. Silk - Number of dents in 36-in., thus 1,200/4 silk sett = 1,200 X 4 - 36 = 133 ends per inch. -
9 Gaberdine
This term was known in the 16th century, when in the Merchant of Venice Shylock reminds Antonio that he " spat upon his Jewish gabardine," which indicates rather " a long cassock " than a cloak or mantle. Blount writes: "what is a gabardine"? "a rough Irish mantle," " a horseman's cloak," or " a long cassock." Palsgrave has " mantyll, a gabardine." Also known as Gallebardine (Italian) ———————— The gaberdine is a fabric having a whipcord effect made from worsted warp and cotton weft. It is usually woven on 11 staves as at A, in a dobby loom with a fine reed. The warp yarns are good quality botany worsted and well spun to give uniformity of surface in the finished cloth. The weft is twofold good quality cotton. Gaberdines are usually set with about twice as many ends as picks per inch. The following particulars give three typical cloths: -
as A. Set 63-in. in the loom to finish 56/7-in.
Cotton gaberdines are made in great quantities, 54-in. or wider, with super qualities of two-fold warp and weft. Some of the lower qualities have single yarns or single weft only. The 11-shaft warp face weave is mostly used, but some are made with the 3 X 1 warp twill An example of the better quality is 54-in. finished, 90 yard., 140 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's T., 2/40's W. A popular quality of cotton gaberdine is made 54-in. finished, 90 yards, 172 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's T., and 2/80's combed and gassed Sakel cotton. A lower variety is made 54-in. finished 90 yards, 162-ends per inch 2/60's Egyptian warp and 86 picks per inch of 24's super American weft. Both the worsted and cotton varieties are used for waterproofs and coatings. The dress goods styles are made 54-in. finished, 100 ends and 62 picks per inch 2/50's botany warp, 36's botany weft.
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10 Poplin
A term now applied to many qualities of fabrics in various yarns. Its chief characteristic is a series of fine ribs running across the cloth from selvedge to selvedge. The weave is plain. Irish poplin is made with 260 ends per inch of 40 denier silk warp and 48 picks per inch of 3/40's worsted weft. Irish poplin dates from the early part of the 18th century. There is now a great trade in cotton poplin for use as shirtings, pyjamas, dress goods, casements, etc. The original cotton poplin was made with 2/100's combed and gassed Sakel. warp 19/20 turns per inch, 2/100's combed and gassed Sakel. weft, doubled twist on twist with 36/40 turns per inch, 148 ends and 78 picks per inch finished. Shirtings were made in two widths, 37-in. grey for 35/36-in. finished and 321/2-in. grey for 31/32-in. finished. Fine poplins are sometimes woven in six or eight shafts to minimise warp breakages during weaving, but they can be quite well woven on four shafts. Cotton poplins are now made in many cheaper qualities than those given above, in which many expedients have been adopted, such as reducing the number of ends and/or picks per inch, using single yarns instead of two-fold, and so on. Some of the lower qualities are as follows: -
The last example * is a casement poplin. -
11 Warp Sateen
Cloth woven with the 5-end warp satin weave. The weaver would put four-fifths of the warp on the face, but this preponderance of warp is increased by weaving more ends than picks per inch, say 160 ends per inch of 60's warp, and 72 picks per inch of 40's weft. Many of these cloths are ornamented with good style jacquard weft figuring, and makes vary considerably from about 150 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's warp, 30's weft, to 110 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/60's warp, 28's weft. -
12 Dent
The wire or space in a loom reed. The wires are separated by spaces through which the warp ends pass. The number of dents per inch indicates the set of the cloth. The Lancashire system of counting is based on the number of dents in two inches, thus an 80 Stockport reed has So dents or splits in two inches. This a is a very convenient system of notation because when there are two ends in each dent the number of the reed also gives the number of threads per inch in the reed. In another system the reed count is the number of dents in one inch. In such a case a 20/5 reed would have 20 dents per inch and 5 ends in each dent, a total of 100 ends per inch in the reed. -
13 Taffeta
TAFFETA, TAFFETY(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours. -
14 Taffety
TAFFETA, TAFFETY(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours. -
15 Asbestos Tape
The specification covers asbestos tape woven from grade A plain asbestos yarn containing 80 - 85 per cent asbestos, and suitable for electrical purposes. Four thicknesses of tape are given. The tape 0.015-in. thick + 0.003-in., 30-ends per inch, 18 picks per inch, shall have a strength of 25-lb. per inch width and 1-in. width be 40 yards per lb. minimum. The strength shall not be less than 50 per cent of this after heating in an oven at 300 deg. C. for 5 mins. The 0.25-in. thick tape, 27-ends and 12 picks per inch, shall be not less than 25 yards per lb., and strength 50-lb. per inch width. The tolerance for width is 1/32-in. above or below for tapes up to 1-in., and 1/10-in. for tapes above 1-in. The tapes shall be uniformly woven and have selvedge edges, and shall be free from microscopic particles of iron. -
16 Reed
A term applied to the number of threads in a given space, usually 1/4-in. or 1-in. Shippers and makers understand the term " 17 reed " to mean 64 ends per inch in the cloth, that is 4 down. When a cloth is indicated by a reed in the quarter-inch count it usually means that the number of threads per inch is 4 less than the reed number X by 4. If the ends per inch are stated, it means that number actual. ———————— A metal comb fixed in a frame; the closeness of its wires determines the fineness of a cloth; it keeps the warp threads spaced evenly, forms a guide for the back of the shuttle, and beats up the weft to the fell of the cloth. Wires are fixed in the baulks at the top and bottom and the number of dents in one inch determines the counts. These wires are set equi-distant by tarred wrapping cords. The counts of a reed are stamped on the binder rods at the end. If required two black wires are set exactly one inch apart near the middle of the reed, the number of dents between indicating the count of the reed. -
17 Melton
A heavy smooth cloth, made all wool or from cotton warp and wool weft. Woven 76-in. to So-in, to finish 50-in. to 56-in. wide, and about 24-oz. per yard. The cloth is raised and cropped and very heavily milled. The 2 & 2 twill is used, especially in the all-wool styles. Meltons, kerseys and tweeds for coatings and uniforms are very similar in appearance when finished. Fig. A gives a popular design on 4-shafts and 8 picks, made 82-in. wide to finish when milled and dyed 58-in. wide, wool yarns 28 yards per dram warp and 22 yards weft. The warp is openband (twist to the left) and the weft crossband (twist to the right) and soft spun. Reed 4 in a dent 52-ends per inch, 80 picks per inch, weight 32-oz. per yard. Design B gives a cheap style of Melton in which cotton warp and mungo weft is used. Made 80-in. to finish 54-in., 52 ends and 52 picks per inch, 2/40's Egyptian cotton warp, 7 yards per dram mungo weft. This cloth costs about 60 per cent less than the above.
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18 Longyi
A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ————————LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
19 Loongees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
20 Loonghees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.
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